Words and photos by Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap

“Everyday is Christmas here,” our boatman muses, as he coaxes the fireflies with the red light from his cellophane-covered torch. The conspicuous insects respond, lighting up the mangrove just like a Christmas tree. It was late in the evening and we were the last to be toured, so we had the entire river to ourselves. My friends and I sat still in the bangka(outrigger canoe), steeping ourselves in the somewhat soothing pitch-black darkness and, occasionally, letting out irrepressible ooohs and aaaahs at nature’s light show.

Launched by the ABS-CBN Foundation and the government in October 2008, this award-winning ecotourism project is now managed by the local community. This is one of the legacies of the late environmental activist Gerry Ortega, who was assassinated in January 2011 allegedly because of his anti-mining advocacy in Palawan. The 45-minute boat tour takes visitors through 1.5 kilometers of the Iwahig River, also known as Balsahan River in Barangay Irawan, half an hour from the city center.

The clusters of fireflies along the mangrove riverbanks are complemented by the omnipresence of bioluminescent plankton in the brackish water. They glow green when the water is disturbed, as our canoe slips into the eerie stillness of the river. Overhead, the night sky performs its own psychedelic light show, as constellations, planets and shooting stars convene for a bravado. If a chill night over San Miguel Beer and tamilok ceviche is your only picture of Puerto Princesa’s nightlife, think again.

HOW TO GET THERE: There are direct flights from Manila to Puerto Princesa. From the city, one can hire a tricycle to Iwahig River (30 to 45 mins, PHP 600 return, up to 4 pax). The firefly watching operates from 6 to 10 pm daily. The 45-minute boat tour costs PHP 600 (3 persons per boat). Make reservations especially during holidays and weekends: +63 9185725598. Look for Nelia David. Flash photography is not permitted during the tour. Free-wifi available at the site entrance!

With death toll reaching more than 900 and hundreds still missing, tropical storm Sendong (international name Washi) is definitely the deadliest storm to hit the Philippines and most likely, the rest of the world this year.

Our brothers and sisters in Mindanao particularly those from Cagayan de Oro and Iligan City which were hit by flashfloods brought about by the torrential rains last weekend are in need of our help.

Donations in cash and kind are accepted in Recreational Outdoor eXchange (R.O.X) and Columbia Sportswear stores nationwide until December 22, 2011.

Let’s all do what we can. Join the relief effort for the victims of Sendong NOW.

Words and Photos by Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap

Lake Sebu is considered as one of the country’s most important watersheds

During my much-anticipated visit to Lake Sebu in South Cotabato, I had the opportunity to experience spending a night in an indigenous home. The T’boli are one of the numerous non-Islamic indigenous peoples or lumads in Mindanao. They once occupied majority of the island, but due to the arrival of Christian migrants from Luzon and Visayas in the early 20^th century, as well as sporadic ethno-political conflicts, they have been pushed to the highlands. Modernization and evangelization have also changed the way of life of many of these ethnic groups, with their heritage and traditions quickly fading away.

My T’boli host Maria with her daughter

When visiting tribal villages, homestays are the best way to experience local culture and directly help their communities. Rather than staying at the touristy lakeside resorts, an enriching way to experience Lake Sebu is by staying with a T’boli family. Oyog “Maria” Todi Arroz is a T’boli cultural worker who occasionally hosts travelers at her tribal hut in Brgy. Lambanig. Her traditional house is located beside a T’boli primary school that runs through an NGO she also founded, the Schools for Indigenous Knowledge and Traditions (SIKAT). Since 1994, Maria has established non-profit organizations that promote T’boli arts and culture through the Helubong Cultural Dance Troupe, and uplift the education and livelihood of indigenous peoples through the Kesetifun Cultural Care Foundation.

Maria’s traditional homestay at Brgy. Lambanig

The spacious tribal hut was first built as a performance space for the dance troupe, but later on become a guesthouse for visiting researchers and documentarists. Built on a hill overlooking the placid lake, Maria’s longhouse is built with nipa palm, bamboo and hardwood. Inside, the rectangular floor plan is composed of a central living area called lowo, surrounded by elevated sleeping areas called blaba, where during day Maria and her friends sit by the large windows, making traditional beadwork jewelry to sell as souvenirs.

A traditional T’boli meal of tilapia, keteng (freshwater clams) and eggplant.

Dinner was the most memorable part of my stay. Maria served a traditional feast on large woven bamboo mat: stewed tilapia – Lake Sebu’s primary produce, eggplant salad and keteng (freshwater clam) soup. Warm rice was wrapped in large leaves called duon lmenge, which we used as plates. Together with her children and nephews, we enjoyed our meal at the lowo, lit by an oil lamp fashioned from a tin can, as Maria shared stories about her life and her efforts to preserve and share T’boli heritage and traditions. Her strength and determination to overcome the personal challenges she faced and her selfless commitment to preserving her people’s heritage and culture are truly inspiring.

HOW TO GET THERE: From General Santos, ride a bus to Koronadal (Marbel), PHP 65 (non-AC, 1 hr). Then catch another one to Surallah, PHP 28 (AC, 30 mins). From Surallah, take the final ride to Lake Sebu aboard a jeepney (PHP 36.50, 45 mins) or hire a motorbike (PHP 100, 1-2 pax, 30 mins).

WHERE TO STAY: Maria’s homestay is located at Brgy. Lambanig, Lake Sebu, Cotabato. When you take a jeepney or motorbike from Surallah, tell the driver to drop you off near the SIKAT-T’boli school.Bring a sleeping bag as it gets very cold at night. Maria does not specify a rate for her homestay. PHP 200 per night would be a fair rate (excluding meals). I encourage visitors to donate more for the upkeep of the house, and to support her NGOs. Contact Maria Todi at +639066345367.