Words and photos by Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap

The fire mummies of Kabayan

Ever since my first visits to the Baguio Museum as a child, I’ve been fascinated by the fire mummies of the Ibaloi people in Kabayan, Benguet. More than two decades after, a spontaneous weekend hiking trip with fellow blogger Christine Fernandez of Adventures of a Jovial Wanderer and a college friend finally brought me face to face with these ancient wonders in their hometown of Kabayan, Benguet.

Ten hours worth of bus rides from Manila via Baguio City will take you to the remote town of Kabayan–the epicenter of the Ibaloi, one of the indigenous highland peoples who live in the Cordillera mountain range. Before seeing the mummies at Timbac, there are a couple of sights worth checking out in Kabayan poblacion, namely the Opdas Mass Burial Site and Kabayan National Museum. Discovered by Ibaloi hunter Banan Berong in 1971, the Opdas Mass Burial Site is the final resting place of over 200 ancient Ibaloi individuals who lived some seven centuries ago. Piles of skulls are displayed on stone shelves inside a rock shelter renovated in 1991. Meanwhile, a small mummy from Pongasan Cave is displayed at the modest National Museum branch at Kabayan town, together with other artifacts of Luzon’s highland tribes.

Some of the best mummies, however, that may be viewed by visitors are a five to seven hour hike from Kabayan town to Mt. Timbac – the fog-capped third highest peak of Luzon – lording over the hamlet. Besides the mummies, the grueling climb from Kabayan town to Timbac caves rewards hikers with majestic views of the Agno river valley and a stopover at the Tinongchol Burial Rock, a three-storey high boulder where ancient Ibaloi carved out holes to inter their dead in wooden coffins.

Over 200 ancient Ibaloi tribesmen rests on the Opdas Mass Buriel site

Believed to be 500 to 1,000 years old, the Kabayan Fire Mummies are entombed in oval and rectangular-shaped hardwood coffins hidden away within “caves” – actually cramp rock shelters – along steep mountain slopes. They are a National Cultural Treasure. Some of the coffins have anthropomorphic and geometric designs etched on the outer surface. And traditional tattoos have been preserved on some individuals. The Ibaloi people mummified their dead by smoking them dry, hence, the nickname “fire mummies”. The World Monuments Fund [URL: http://www.wmf.org/project/kabayan-mummy-caves] explains the mummification process:

Dying members of the tribe drank salty mixtures to begin the process. After death, their bodies were cleansed, rubbed with herbs, and heated while their mouths were filled with smoke. These steps were performed continually over a period of weeks before the deceased were placed fetal position into oval-shaped wooden coffins with decorative carvings. These practices endured until the arrival of Spanish colonialists in 1500 and the caves themselves remained untouched until the 19th century.

Sadly, many of the mummy caves have been trespassed, vandalized and pilfered for the black market for decades. To protect them, the locations of other mummy caves are known only to Ibaloi elders. According to recent reports, the mummies are also being attacked by natural agents such as water seepage, rodent mites, insects and mold. Tribal beliefs hinder the transfer of these mummies to another location to prevent their further deterioration. Some Timbac mummies were on display at Kabayan National Museum, but “asked” to be returned to their original site, our hiking guide explained. While mummification is no longer practiced, present-day Ibaloi consider the mummy caves as sacred and still perform rituals in the area.

View of Agno River from Mt. Timbac

HOW TO GET THERE: From Manila, take a Victory Liner bus to Baguio City (AC, 5 hours, Php 455). A Liner buses (formerly Norton Bus) bound for Kabayan (non-AC, 5 hours, PHP 135) depart at 10:00 AM and 12:00 PM daily at the Slaughterhouse bus terminal along Magsaysay. Upon arriving in Kabayan, make you sure you register at the tourism desk of the police station, near the municipal hall. In town, there’s the Opdas Mass Burial Site (entrance fee: PHP 50) and Kabayan National Museum (PHP 20).

The Timbac Mummy Caves (entrance fee: PHP 40) are a grueling five to seven hour uphill hike along paved roads and dirt trails up Mt. Timbac – the third highest peak in Luzon. During the dry season, tour groups can hire a jeepney or 4X4 from Kabayan town to Timbac Caves for PHP 2,500 to 3,000. You can arrange this with the tourism assistance desk at the police station. The shortcut – only a two-hour 6 km hike – to Timbac mummy caves can be done by entering from the junction at KM 55 along Halsema Highway. There’s a welcome sign directing visitors to the caves at the junction.

WHERE TO STAY: At Kabayan poblacion, the only place to stay is the Kabayan Coop Lodge, which has cozy dorm-style rooms (with shared T/B) at only PHP 200 per head.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The culturally sensitive way to visit the Timbac mummies is to hire an Ibaloi guide from Kabayan town. And to register and pay the entrance fee at the official caretaker’s house near the caves. Mummy caves are sacred sites for the Ibaloi people. Respect the dead: avoid making loud noises and horsing around at the burial sites. Prevent further deterioration of the mummies by keeping your visit brief and refraining from touching the corpses.

Words and Photos by Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap

Lake Sebu is considered as one of the country’s most important watersheds

During my much-anticipated visit to Lake Sebu in South Cotabato, I had the opportunity to experience spending a night in an indigenous home. The T’boli are one of the numerous non-Islamic indigenous peoples or lumads in Mindanao. They once occupied majority of the island, but due to the arrival of Christian migrants from Luzon and Visayas in the early 20^th century, as well as sporadic ethno-political conflicts, they have been pushed to the highlands. Modernization and evangelization have also changed the way of life of many of these ethnic groups, with their heritage and traditions quickly fading away.

My T’boli host Maria with her daughter

When visiting tribal villages, homestays are the best way to experience local culture and directly help their communities. Rather than staying at the touristy lakeside resorts, an enriching way to experience Lake Sebu is by staying with a T’boli family. Oyog “Maria” Todi Arroz is a T’boli cultural worker who occasionally hosts travelers at her tribal hut in Brgy. Lambanig. Her traditional house is located beside a T’boli primary school that runs through an NGO she also founded, the Schools for Indigenous Knowledge and Traditions (SIKAT). Since 1994, Maria has established non-profit organizations that promote T’boli arts and culture through the Helubong Cultural Dance Troupe, and uplift the education and livelihood of indigenous peoples through the Kesetifun Cultural Care Foundation.

Maria’s traditional homestay at Brgy. Lambanig

The spacious tribal hut was first built as a performance space for the dance troupe, but later on become a guesthouse for visiting researchers and documentarists. Built on a hill overlooking the placid lake, Maria’s longhouse is built with nipa palm, bamboo and hardwood. Inside, the rectangular floor plan is composed of a central living area called lowo, surrounded by elevated sleeping areas called blaba, where during day Maria and her friends sit by the large windows, making traditional beadwork jewelry to sell as souvenirs.

A traditional T’boli meal of tilapia, keteng (freshwater clams) and eggplant.

Dinner was the most memorable part of my stay. Maria served a traditional feast on large woven bamboo mat: stewed tilapia – Lake Sebu’s primary produce, eggplant salad and keteng (freshwater clam) soup. Warm rice was wrapped in large leaves called duon lmenge, which we used as plates. Together with her children and nephews, we enjoyed our meal at the lowo, lit by an oil lamp fashioned from a tin can, as Maria shared stories about her life and her efforts to preserve and share T’boli heritage and traditions. Her strength and determination to overcome the personal challenges she faced and her selfless commitment to preserving her people’s heritage and culture are truly inspiring.

HOW TO GET THERE: From General Santos, ride a bus to Koronadal (Marbel), PHP 65 (non-AC, 1 hr). Then catch another one to Surallah, PHP 28 (AC, 30 mins). From Surallah, take the final ride to Lake Sebu aboard a jeepney (PHP 36.50, 45 mins) or hire a motorbike (PHP 100, 1-2 pax, 30 mins).

WHERE TO STAY: Maria’s homestay is located at Brgy. Lambanig, Lake Sebu, Cotabato. When you take a jeepney or motorbike from Surallah, tell the driver to drop you off near the SIKAT-T’boli school.Bring a sleeping bag as it gets very cold at night. Maria does not specify a rate for her homestay. PHP 200 per night would be a fair rate (excluding meals). I encourage visitors to donate more for the upkeep of the house, and to support her NGOs. Contact Maria Todi at +639066345367.

Words by Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap

“Filipinos were the original kings of bling!” I overheard an American visitor exclaim at the Ayala Museum in Makati City last weekend when he beheld over a thousand ancient artifacts made of 22 to 24 karat gold. They are from the 10th to 13th centuries, a time when the archipelago was ruled by many small kingdoms that flourished by establishing trade links with the Far East and Southeast Asia to as far away as India and Persia. I was well aware of the rich culture of pre-Hispanic Philippines, but I did not expect such exquisite and extensive proof to have survived to this day.

Gold image of a Kinnari: a half-woman, half-bird creature in Hindu-Buddhist mythology

Gold of the Ancestors, a priceless collection of pre-Spanish Era gold artifacts from around the Philippines, was truly the most breathtaking and enlightening exhibit at the museum, providing tangible proof of the breadth and richness of the Philippines’ cultural influences before Spanish colonization. More than their weight in gold, I was overwhelmed by the artistic and historical value of the collection, which is the most impressive archaeological exhibit in the country.
I first learned about the golden treasures of pre-Hispanic Philippines from history class back in college. I remember seeing illustrations from the Boxer Codex, a 16th century manuscript, depicting pre-colonial Filipinos heavily adorned with gold ornaments.

The 16th century Boxer Codex depicting Filipino noblemen decked in gold

A significant part of the collection belongs to the “Surigao Treasure” accidentally discovered in 1981 by a bulldozer operator working on an irrigation project in Surigao del Norte. There are also gold artifacts on display recovered from other excavations across the archipelago: Camarines Sur, Mindoro, Eastern Visayas and Agusan, to name a few. The most spectacular pieces on display were ear ornaments with garuda designs, identical to the ones I’ve seen as stone carvings at ancient temples in Indonesia; delicate burial masks from Butuan; the image of a kinnari, a deity that’s half-woman, half-bird; and a ceremonial cord (as illustrated in the Boxer Codex) made of woven gold wires that weighed almost four kilograms!

The piece de resistance: a ceremonial sash weighing almost four kilograms!

HOW TO GET THERE: Alight at the Ayala MRT Station, and take a 15 minute walk to Greenbelt Park. Ayala Museum is located at Makati Ave corner Dela Rosa St, Makati City. View location map here. Entrance for resident/non-resident of the Philippines (Ground to Fourth Level: PHP 225/425. One-year membership: PHP 500. For more information, visithttp://www.ayalamuseum.org

Photographs: Ayala Museum (Gold Artifacts) & Wikipedia (Boxer Codex)

Words and Photos by Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap

Cape Bolinao Lighthouse

Maybe it was the “supermoon”, a full moon that coincides with the closest approach to Earth. The cosmos seemed to conspire to make our excursion to Patar Beach, Bolinao in northern Pangasinan the best weekend getaway by far. All the elements seemed to perfectly fall in place: cloudless skies, long stretches of golden sand, cool waters, golden sunsets, good food, cheery locals and crazy, crazy company. Unlike Batangas or Mindoro, Bolinao makes for a more laid-back escape from Manila, especially for those after the simple pleasures of sun, sand and snooze.

Spectacular sunset view

Besides enjoying the beach, one can also drop by some picturesque historic spots. The sunsets from Cape Bolinao Lighthouse, an imposing structure built on a hill two kilometers south of Bing’s Beach Resort, were so spectacular, we could almost hear the African chant from The Lion King.

400-year old St. James Parish Church

And back in Bolinao town, there’s the impressive St. James Parish Church. A fascinating feature of this 400-year-old Spanish church are the Aztec-style altar sculptures of human faces with protruding tongues believed to have been brought to the archipelago from Mexico. The antique altar of hardwood is now housed in a side chapel at the left side upon entering the church. Aside from Filipino words rooted in the Aztec tongue of Nahuatl such as tiangge (Nahuatl: tianquiztli for ’seasonal markets’), pitaka (Nahuatl: petlacalli for ‘coin purse’) and kamote (Nahuatl: camotli for ’sweet potato’), this is clear evidence of the socio-economic and cultural connections between the Philippines and the New World brought about by the Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade.

HOW TO GET HERE: Manila-Bolinao buses (PHP 437, 6 to 7 hours) leave from the Victory Liner – Cubao Terminal along EDSA. If you want to enjoy Bolinao for a weekend, hop on the last bus at 9:00 PM on Friday night. From the bus terminal in Bolinao town, 24/7 tricycles can take you to your resort at Patar Beach (PHP 200 negotiable, 1 to 4 pax, 40 minutes). Last bus back to Manila leaves at 3:00 PM.

WHERE TO STAY: For budget accommodation along Patar Beach, stay at Bing’s Beach Resort (For reservations, contact +63 9282477501). Staff and owners are very friendly and accommodating. Rooms start at PHP 1,000 for the beachfront fan cottage, 4 pax. They serve home-cooked meals. Menu changes everyday depending on available ingredients. For special meal requests, ask in advance. We had a huge serving of bulalo (beef marrow soup) for PHP 300, good for four.