Words and photos by Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap
Deep-fried flowers, a specialty from Ko Kret worth trying
Bangkok is an urbanite’s dream. But when one needs to tune out from the Backpacker abandon of Khao San, or the manic consumerism of Chatuchak or even the irresistibly neon fantasies of Patpong, there’s an “island” oasis upriver where, surprisingly, rural life still rolls by at a relaxing pace.
To start with, Ko Kret (Koh Kred), the island I’m taking about wasn’t an island until the late 17th century when a canal was built to bypass a sharp bend along the Chao Phraya River thereby isolating a squarish piece of land from the rest of Nonthaburi, And, fortunately, rescuing it from three centuries worth of urbanization thereafter.
Classical Mon dancers in traditional costume
For the past 200 years, this riverine island, located only 17 km north of central Bangkok, has become an enclave of the Mon people who once dominated central Thailand during the 6th to 10th centuries. This distinct ethnic group was responsible for the spread of Theravada Buddhism in Thailand and Burma, and also for their pottery making, a tradition kept alive in Ko Kret. The kwan aman style of Mon pottery popular on the island is characterized by baked unglazed clay with intricate patterns.
The ancient Mon tradition of pottery making thrives in Ko Kret
Similar to Singapore’s last kampung (traditional village), the mangrove island of Pulau Ubin, one of the most enjoyable ways to explore Ko Kret is by bicycle, which can be rented out for only THB 40 per day! My travel companions and I had a great time looping around the island at a leisurely pace following narrow concrete pathways and bridges, passing by Buddhist temples, whitewashed chedis, stilted teak houses and, of course, the renowned pottery villages where the craftsmanship of Mon earthenware has been preserved for centuries. By the roadside, villagers busily chopped firewood and fed their chickens, not forgetting to exchange friendly nods, smiles and sawasdees with visitors. Since there are no cars on the island, only the occasional purr of passing motorbikes punctuated the countryside atmosphere.
Bicycles can be rented by tourists to explore the island
Teak houses, the traditional Thai home
More surprises are in store at the local markets selling souvenirs and local treats. While we had the usual Thai favorites of deliciously spicy pad thai, satay and iced tea devoured at riverside eateries, we also sampled some of the stranger fare served up at the food stalls like deep-fried orchid and santan (ixora) flowers!
For its size, Ko Kret has quite a handful for the jaded city slicker to discover. So the next time you’re in Bangkok and, for whatever reason, the city starts to get to you, remember there’s an island getaway just a stone’s throw away that will take you back to the joys of the simple life.
HOW TO GET THERE: From central Bangkok, one can ride the river ferry north along the Chao Phraya River to Nonthaburi pier (THB 12), where you can bargain for a long-tail boat further upriver to Ko Kret. We were able to hire one for a return trip for THB 1,000 (3 persons) with 4-hours waiting time.
