Unraveling Abra

Words and photos by Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap

The art of loom weaving thrives in Abra

“A tourist sees a place, while on the other hand a traveler seeks,” a friend of mine recently posted on Facebook. True enough, more than visiting popular spots, what excites me more about travel is discovering off-the-beaten track sort of places.

Locals at the Abra River

During a trip along Ilocos Norte’s northern coast, fellow travel blogger Gael Hilotin of The Pinay Solo Backpacker and I detoured southward to avoid an imminent tropical storm and spontaneously discovered a province off the tourist maps–Abra. Largely ignored by North Luzon’s tourist circuit, this landlocked province in the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) makes a perfect destination for travelers who want to blaze the trail for new travel discoveries.

The Bangued Cathedral has witnessed most of Philippine’s historical events since 1807

A view from Vitoria Peak

After having a quick breakfast at a local bakery in the provincial capital of Bangued, we started our exploration by walking up to Victoria Park. Perched on Cassamata Hill, the park offered a refreshing environment for morning joggers and commanding views of the town embraced by mountains. Back down at the town’s center, the Bangued Cathedral has been restored. And the town church in the neighboring municipality of Tayum is also well preserved.

Spanish architecture  in Abra barely survived from World War II attacks

However, only a few ancestral homes have enjoyed a similar fate. Most have been reduced to dilapidated walls, or at worst mere mounds of reddish rubble.  Fortunately, a few of them have been converted to carinderias (eateries) serving the town’s specialty, miki noodle soup. In contrast to the common bahay na bato (stone house), the Spanish-period ancestral homes in Bangued were built primarily with red bricks instead of chalky-white coral stone. Sadly, most of these structures were badly damaged during the 2^nd World War, and whatever has survived it are now abandoned and left to disintegrate with the elements.

More than its architectural heritage, Abra takes pride in its traditional handicrafts.  “Most of the souvenirs and products sold to tourists in Vigan are made in Abra,” local entrepreneur Yvonne Casia proudly revealed. A doctor by profession, Ms. Casia has now invested all her time on her bamboo craft business.  We discovered her workshop, which showcased creative bamboo furniture and other home accessories while walking around the town.

A local bamboo craftsman at work

The accommodating businesswoman also referred us to another local venture that preserves one of the province’s fading traditions. Located in a rural village outside the poblacion, Leila’s Loomweaving in Brgy. Bulbulala, La Paz produces traditional textiles and textile products such as blankets, polo shirts, scarves, pillowcases, table runners and placemats, all painstakingly manufactured with century-old handlooms. “Even (the) Tingguian tribe people who have lost the art of weaving come down from the mountains to buy cloth from us,” said business owner Ms. Natividad Quiday, whose family has been in the handloom weaving business for at least four generations.

Ruins of a colonial home

Both heritage and tradition contribute significantly to Abra’s tourism potential. As an adventurous side trip from the perennial favorites of Laoag or Vigan, it offers an unexpected array of sights and experiences: baroque churches, ancestral brick houses, traditional handicrafts like bamboo crafts and loom weaving, set amidst expansive mountain valley sceneries. Beyond the sights, what piqued my interest more were the hospitality, diligence and perseverance of the locals we serendipitously met during our day visit, which will definitely not be our last as there’s definitely much more to discover in the province.

HOW TO GET THERE: Dominion Bus Lines had direct trips from Manila to Bangued (PHP 580, 7 to 9 hours). Terminal: New York Street, Cubao, Quezon City Tel. No.: +632 7414146 or 7314180. Bangued is also accessible by regular buses from Vigan, Ilocos Sur (PHP 70, 1 ½ hours). While tricycles are the most convenient way to get around, the city center is within walking distance.